Trips

I land early morning and after the obligatory 2-1/2 hours in the immigration queue (how come it only happens in the USA) and after I assemble my bike it is still many hours before I can go to my Airbnb so I take off down the coast a bit past Redondo Beach and back.

The downtown area is easy to ride in with wide streets and even some bike paths. After this I head out through Hollywood, Beverly Hills, over the 405 then south. Navigation is not hard here.

Last night online I read about Skid Row so went back into the city to see it. There is a homeless population of up to 10,000 people here. It is claimed that some cities give their homeless folk free bus tickets to LA.

Back to the coast and I’m heading north.

Malibu up ahead.

The amount of sand along the coast is amazing. Machines sift it at night no doubt removing cigarette butts and other “trash” as it is called here.

Today I head across to Santa Monica then south along the beaches. There is quite a scene along here.

The Ballona Creek bike path has become one of my favoured ways of getting around.

From this path there is often access to other paths and to shopping centres.

Even big scary roads like Sepulveda are usually quite ridable. When not then it is really obvious and you just get off. Bikes are not permitted on some big highways.

Back at LAX to depart I go to the Qantas sales desk to buy a carton and get a “what’s that?” look. So I come back a few hours later with this and am told it MUST be in a carton. In his effort to convince me the supervisor boasted that only yesterday a passenger abandoned his bike due to the inflexibility of Qantas on this point. I lost the photo but to solve the impasse I just bought more small boxes and returned with a mega-carton. I reported the guy to Qantas back in Australia. Normally Qantas is helpful with bikes.

Poland is best described as “variable” when it comes to cycling conditions. But there are undoubtedly good bits.

The not-yet-opened-expressway continues for 10’s of kilometres.

In Augustow a fellow bike lover shows off to me in the park.

I’m on a long straight highway with lots of lorries and no shoulder. My mirror is saving me. I find I am glancing at it about every 10 seconds. Here you can see the next lorry in the mirror.

In Lithuania there seems to be a more serious effort to prepare for the coming age of bicycles.

This is in Nth Latvia. To escape a nasty headwind I opt for forest tracks but this one is a tad too sandy. Although my rear tyre is 32 and my front is 28, so no good for this sandy pine forest, they are still the best widths overall for this trip.

A rest day in Riga. An impressive old town with a modern vibe. Best not in peak-tourist season. There is a great museum dedicated to 1935-1990.

Constantly north. I am fantasising that this is a reindeer but perhaps not.

In Parnu, Estonia. In the central park on a Saturday afternoon a whole series of ethnic dance performances all in costume.

A preserved relic without a plaque in a wheat field without a town nearby. Like so much of Europe, history here has seen conquerors and religions come and go.

Baltic pine is the most common construction material but there are some superb stone buildings in Estonia.

Arriving in Tallinn. About 1,150km from Warsaw the way I came.

Tallinn is a major tourist destination but that is concentrated in the old city which is very well preserved.

After getting a bike carton at the sports shop near the airport I have been able to check-in weighing 22.2kg. The planes out of here are quite small and they are exercising a 23kg limit. Otherwise about $200+.

Western Argentina is very dry but rivers coming from the snow melting in the Andes have allowed irrigation to exist for centuries.

We are running South and the Andes are 80km to the west. They are massive.

On the Cuyo. The Andes are 125km away but dominate the scenery.

In Alto Pencoso. The boy has his bike pump attached to his back wheel.

Road to San Luis. We became seriously dehydrated on this stretch and even drank out of a cattle trough.

Rio Cuarto bike shop visit.

There are some nasty headwinds in these parts. Today it was full-on headwind for hours and then a storm came through and we had a massive tailwind.

In Rio Cuarto Josh and a radio interviewer try to understand each other.

One of the great benefits of touring with a trailer is that you can haul bike boxes.

Buenos Aires is an impressive city.

We are reunited with a dear friend in Salto.

The boxes are too short and too low but we came through with no damage.

Heading South to Galle.

Our daughter is having a rest after being such a hit with her blond hair and blue eyes.

Awake again and the audience rushes back. Because she’s on the back I have to have all the luggage on the front. Note the Sanyo Dynapower, Campag bar-end levers, centre-pull brakes, Cinelli bars and stem, Brooks Team Professional saddle.

Everywhere we go, our daughter is taken care of by the staff. They just want to be near her.

Fishing boats at Hambantota.

Climbing up into the highlands.

The roads are “reasonable” and there is very little traffic. Getting chilly.

The shops in the middle of Kandy are all on fire.

We visit the elephant orphanage. Absolutely amazing.

Back in the lowlands with flat roads, warm air and coconut palms.

Posing with the local policeman.

Not long out on the road there is a snack opportunity. India has the best street food I have encountered anywhere in the world.

A few buffalos on the road.

A few pigs cleaning up the rubbish.

Shayne navigates around a herd of goats. It’s good to have a horn on your bike in India.

Being washed in the waters of the Tungabhadra (tounga-bardra)

The history of the Hampi area is really amazing. Much of it was made from stone so has lasted for centuries. In 1500 it was the second biggest city in the world (after Beijing).

Way out in the country today we came across a wedding celebration. We joined in the dancing. It was an absolute hoot and everyone loved it.

India is a tough place in some ways but the softness and beauty are not hidden away.

We have just come around a corner so no one had time to pose or look away (which is what women are told to do). So, this is a candid shot of a few families hanging out with all their goats lounging at the front.

Today we passed a few schools where the kids were outside doing exercises. If they see us bedlam breaks out and its hard for the teachers to get them back under control so we speed past.

Passing through some ghats today things become scenic. Tea and coffee plantations. Wildlife reserves.

The temple in Belur is quite amazing. It is massive but has a lot of very fine stone carving. There is a good Tourist Lodge in Belur too.

We are eating a lot of grapes. Our washing technique is to pour mineral water into the bag of grapes and swish it around a lot and tip the water out suddenly so as to ensure any dirt goes with the water. But the grapes always seem free of dirt anyway.

At BLR airport we pack using materials we bought in the last day of riding. Bathmats, zip-ties, rope and tarpaulin. The next morning we successfully ride out of Sydney airport.

After riding around from Invercargill we head inland from Clutha and find great cycling infrastructure. You have to hand it to the Kiwis. They do it well.

Perfect timing. Early Jan and down south here the apricots are ripe.

Gorgeous scenery out from Alexandra.

The Central Otago region is in a rain shadow so it has a dry micro-climate. Open and windy. A few days later a truck was blown over not far away.

There are millions of sheep here. I guess you knew that.

Half way between the south pole and the equator.

Not millions but a LOT of deer. It must be mostly exported as there is not much venison in the shops.

On the Maungatapu Track. It is incredibly steep both up and down. It is a shortcut between Nelson and Havelock. Supposedly.

The tyres that would be best for this would not be much good for most of the country. So we walked about 10km.

Approaching Havelock near dusk.

Havelock is the home of the green-lipped mussels, one of the big reasons to go there. They are fantastic. Only $4.50 a kg.

Queen Charlotte Sound. This is a spectacular area. A bit isolated so you need to carry food in.

NZ has some classic landforms and this is one of them. Bare rounded ridges. At dusk they are at their best.

From Picton we get the boat to Wellington and fly out of there. It is possible to buy bike cartons at Wellington airport.