Trips

Cotton picker on the road to Warangal.

Its getting a bit late and the animals are being brought back in. We still have a 40km forest to ride through.

The main road is straight ahead but we want to go to Konta. It would have been easy to not notice on this sign that we need to go left.

For a few days we are in western Orrisa. This is a fish trap.

Woodgetters. These women don’t just stroll. They jog. And today we saw one of them jogging whilst also breastfeeding.

This is a load of leaves. They will be going to a big market, probably some distance away. They are used with beetle nut, a stimulant that men and women chew. It makes their mouths red and causes them to spit out red saliva. All a bit gross but what an impressive load!

An animist roadside totem top. One of the world’s largest tribal populations lives in the forests of Chhattisgarh, where they follow a religion that blends animism and witchcraft with the worship of multiple gods.

Arranging a boat ride. It is already a 120km day and if we can’t pull this off it will be 170km. The rivers become massive in the wet season and would just be too expensive to build enough bridges over them. In the wet season this would be impassable.

Chhattisgarh family with corn.

Women bringing leaves in from the forest.

So many bikes have only pedal spindles, the rubber having fallen off. I have started carrying pedals and when I see one of these I do a very quick free service and in one minute depart leaving the bike with brand new pedals and the locals scratching their heads saying “what just happened”. I did three bikes today.

This is the largest number of people I have seen on a single rickshaw. I can see 11 but there might be as many as 20.

The road is rough but there are lots of local cyclists. They have their own tracks on either side and it is quite easy to travel at 25-30kph on these perfect bike tracks. On the road you’d be doing less than 20.

The bridges of Maharashtra. Surely someone has made a coffee table book of them. They are beautiful. Today a woman washing clothes flashed her boobs as I rode past. We all laughed.

Departing Nagpur. Yesterday was a rest day allowing time to score cardboard and wrap the bikes after they had the front wheels, saddles, pedals and handlebars taken off. This remote and not-modern part of India pulls at my heart as I take off.

If I follow bike paths the zig-zagging takes forever. This map is not much help either. I’ll just use the compass and go SW.

It seems wherever apples grow, so does hops.

At Eurobike, a trade show with 40,000 visitors, hotel accommodation is booked out for 60 kilometers. In the nearby town a hotel room costs upwards of 250 euro. But at this camping only 500m from the show, a tent is provided and it costs 6 euro (2007) a night. It is in a local sports club and we use the showers in the changerooms. Every year there are a few hundred mostly European bike shop people that stay here, many having arrived on bikes. It is a great atmosphere.

Can’t get that beer out fast enough.

A tour in Germany is a tour of woodstacks.

This is Bavaria. The roads are duplicated for bikes and it is not a question of which way to go. More a case of…where will I go and knowing there will be a bike path also.

The Danube or Donau. Only 100km to the west of here it is a tiny stream.

Some impressive things along the way.

The Ulm Minster, the tallest church in the world and the 4th tallest building in the world that was built pre-20th century.

By the time the Danube reaches Ulm it is getting big. In the city there are extensive bike paths alongside the river.

First impressions count a lot and this ute load of mangoes, 3kg for $2 was a great start.

Iguanas abound. They must be very successful in this environment as there are so many.

Scarlet Macaws. We are starting to notice it is not only humans that do well here. Wildlife is everywhere.

Along the Pacific coast heading towards Manzanillo. So many beautiful places. No tourists either.

Howler monkeys. We watch them and they watch us.

There are a lot of horses in Central America. It is beautiful to see them out in remote and peaceful places.

Many rivers to cross. It would be nice if the bottoms were sandy and shoes could be left off but mostly they are stony. Josh is going for barefoot on this one and the sole reward is dry shoes.

As we climb around a headland we get great views down the Pacific coast on the Nicoya Peninsula.

A mantled howler male (obviously). They run along power lines that are plastic coated. Often in large groups so it’s quite a sight.

Gringos being taken for a horse ride along the beach.

There are lots of roads like this in Costa Rica. The country has no army (abolished in 1949). It intends to be carbon neutral by 2021. It ranks as one of the best environmental performers in the world.

In the 2008-11 period Vivente had models with frame coupling. This is the Ritchey Breakaway and is, in effect, the same as the alternative S&S coupling. It is intended to allow the bike to be packed in under the 62” IATA limit for normal baggage. The trouble is, with big frames, long chainstays, rear carriers, mudguards, big tyres and long fork steerers it doesn’t work. Even if you take the cranks off. Perhaps the S&S works. The Ritchey doesn’t.

Hanoi has a charming combination of French and Asian style. Good coffee. Good bakery items. Good fruit.

Land is scarce and buildings are being erected over water. This is not a flood. It is the normal water level.

From the sidewalk the sea of traffic looks scary. So many bikes, scooters cars and trucks. But once you launch into it is quite ok. Then you see schoolgirls riding alongside and stop worrying.

In morning peak hour, the number of scooters coming into the city is extraordinary.

On day rides around the city I am soon in clean, calm and beautiful places.

Having grown up on an irrigation farm I am fascinated by different ways people have to deliver water to their crops.

The modernisation and industrialisation taking place alongside traditional farming is sobering.

I am flying on Vietnam Airlines and their website asserts luggage must be no more than 62”. Even going to this amount of trouble my XXL bike with a coupling system doesn’t make it. But I am not charged extra. Soon after this VWR ceases making coupling bikes.

It’s summer and fresh fruit is plentiful. Kiwi fruit here. But cherries and apricots are also in season.

The scenery is stunning. So many people comment on how they run out of superlatives to describe it.

The Matawai pub. Iconic old hotels offer very reasonable lodging often in tiny towns that long ago were much larger.

An unconventional but seemingly good idea. To catch the olives.

40 South. It also passes through Bass Strait.

At Pukaha Mt Bruce nature reserve we see the remarkable migratory eels. These ones are in the wild.

Whilst having an ice cream someone says “are you hear to ride the trail?” In fact we had no idea but soon we riding the Rimutaka Cycle Trail.

Rimutaka is an old railway with lots of informative plaques and great tunnels.

What a treat.

A road through a long gorge. One must admire the kiwi roadbuilders. The country has under 5 million people but they have built roads in treacherous places and regularly have to rebuild them after earthquakes.

The sign at the south west end.

Coming into Wellington there is a very cool bit of infrastructure. There is a sensor that spots bikes and activates that bike sign you can see on the left. As you go through a squeeze-point, the traffic is warned you are there.

Off we go. We can sense we are in for a great time.

We stop in a village and watch as the dosa plate fires up. Perfect hosts they are. They would not even let us pay.

The openness of the faces we see along the way is the best thing of all. It’s the universal language and we love it.

Ducks are a growth industry in coastal paddy areas. We are on a reasonably busy road and these few thousand ducks are moving from one paddy, across the road, to another. Everyone stops.

We are about to cross the Godavari. The big east-flowing rivers of south India start in the western ghats. Due to the monsoonal rains, by the time they reach the coastal lowlands in the east, they are several kilometres wide.

Bike tourers share a closeness with farmers in the old world. You only have to go there in order to feel it.

We are travelling at the same speed as lots of other people on the road. There are lots of these interchanges in which we are all having fun being side by side.

We encounter media every day and often ride through towns and hear “Australia” mentioned on the side of the road, meaning we were in the local paper that morning. Indians must be one of the most curious peoples on the planet.

These women make mudbricks. We all stop and take the spectacle of each other in. Except that they are far more spectacular than we are.

We’re not getting anywhere because we are having such a good time hanging out along the road. The people are so nice to us.

The colour here just knocks your socks off, with such beautiful skin.

We are in the forest area now. Goat herders.

The three-wheelers go a little bit faster than us, so we have these interchanges with the people in the back. We can’t help but comment on how happy people seem here.

They are getting ready to plant seed for rice seedlings. They want smooth mud. The animals understand what to do. They have done it this way for hundreds of years.

You cannot have too much of this. Touring out on the back roads in India is the best. Especially on the Deccan.

We pack at Bangalore (BLR) using materials we bought on the last day as we rode through the last towns. Coir rope, bath mats, tarpaulin. So much easier than scrounging for a carton in town and getting transport.

It is my first time riding in Spain and I’m hitting tunnels with no edge and signs saying no bikes. Then the country opens up as I climb a big range and drop into Granada. Coming in I am forced to use an expressway. No doubt this will be addressed in the future but currently it isn’t easy to ride into Granada from the south.

La Alhambra is truly amazing. Indeed, it must be up there with the best things made by humankind on the planet.

Really old olive trees apparently keep on producing. Presumably some of these trees are centuries old. They just keep pruning to get new branches.

It is May and the poppies are gorgeous.

In the botanic gardens in Cordoba. For crushing olive oil, above the stones, in the steel structure, there is a transmission system to make the stones roll around in a circle.

Sevilla is amongst the most picturesque cities anywhere. There are beautiful plazas, bridges, gardens and a massive cathedral. It is very bike friendly. A lot of classy horses too.

Up in Merida, founded in the 1st century BC, are impressive reminders of the times of Roman rule.

Would you go to this trouble to grow grapes? These are planted in 100% rock. The vines do look pretty happy though.

Heading south to Zafra I am seeing quite a few cycle tourers. It is a good route.

Plaza del Torres. This is in a town of only 15,000 people. Amazing that animal cruelty can be popularised and institutionalised on this scale.

I’ve just stopped on this bridge for a break and looking over the side notice this huge school of fish.

Approaching Cadiz. Decent shoulder. The city is on a long island that protects a natural harbour. As I came past the airport 30km back I was pleased to confirm there would be a carton available when I return in a few days.

It is supposedly the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe. Very Andalusian. Columbus sailed from here. There are very impressive gardens featuring specimens brought back from the New World 4-500 years ago.

I have been riding a 2006 Vivente World Randonneur with Tiagra 9sp STI, front disc and rear cantilever, Alex rims, outboard BB. I am giving these Taiwanese panniers a go but am feeling they are not good enough. The outboard BB gets a bit of play. Coming off some of the mountain passes I am exceeding 70kph and am wondering what difference a rear disc brake would make.

At Emperor’s View on the Zomba Plateau. Haile Selassie stood on this spot in 1965. He is revered in Africa. We are looking out across the Shire Plains.

Kids get very excited to see us. The one that has turned away has spotted the camera and is diving into the bush. Some people think that taking their photograph is tantamount to stealing their soul. Objections to photography have been quite common.

Mangochi in morning peak hour. Bicycles rule.

From Monkey Bay looking across Lake Malawi (Lake Nyasa) to the mountains in Mozambique. The lake, is part of the rift valley, where Africa is being pulled apart. It is home to more species of fish than any other lake.

There is a lot of deforestation with daily encounters of bikes laden with firewood and roadside bags full of charcoal. One bag sells for about AUD5. Someone stands there all day, day in, day out, waiting for a sale.

There are very few motor vehicles out in the country. Walking and cycling predominate. The occasional ute tends to be heavily overloaded.

The size of the loads of wood on the bikes is amazing. This one is 16km south of Salima heading all the way to Salima. Imagine the energy needed to do this, day in, day out.

The bush track to Mzimba. In several places it would be impassable for a 4WD. Again, bicycles rule.

Girl with child at Chikongawa.

We often struggled to find street food. Deep fried potato is quite common. This is the early morning offering. There is a fire under the middle depression. Cooked chips are placed in a pile on the side and a little chopped cabbage is added. You stand there, eating with fingers and dip the chips in salt and chilli.

On a good stretch of road another load of wood. We probably passed 50 like this per day.

I have never seen so many coffin makers as in Malawi. At least three a day. Life expectancy ranking is 170th in the world. The number 1 cause of death is HIV/AIDS. The number 7 cause is malaria.

A lighter moment. Lachlan in the market in Madisi.

Typical corn storage made from interwoven stalks and leaves. Actually, here its called maize. This is by far the most common grain in Malawi.

Mice. To us it is poverty food but to the hungry it is a treat to be eaten whole. This is common along the M1.

The incredibly tough local bike as transport for passengers and goods. Notice the double top tube, the mixte stays, the big mud flaps, the double mirrors, foot rests, skirt net and single slip sprocket. These cyclists are as tough as nails and we were in awe of them.

Unable to carry the cartons ourselves and unable to fit the two packed cartons in the small local vehicles, plus having the two of us to fit in, we got it all in one trip to the airport by preparing the bikes and folding the cartons like this. It has been an unforgettable bike tour.

In this part of the world, in Google maps, the “Cycling” option really works. It makes use of tracks through forests, vineyards and all manner of places.

And through cornfields. Relatively narrow tyres are still the best choice as long as they are still protected against punctures. These tracks are usually well worn by cyclists.

The scenery in Switzerland is unbeatable. Today it changed from German flavour to French flavour, all in the space of 20 km.

Super rich farmland with vegetables going very well without any irrigation.

Wine grapes are just days off being ready. The west of Switzerland is a stunning region and excellent cycling routes there are easy to find.

We are in France now and most of the day on the Rhone. For 30km I ride with a local bunch of old roadies. I say ‘old’ (they were in their 70’s) as I could not keep up with young roadies. I have luggage. Their leader is on an e-bike!

What greater pleasures are there then picking ripe fruit from the side of a bike path? Heading south I am speeding up the arrival of Autumn.

South of Grenoble the country becomes really stunning.

Now in Provence. This is a region to come back to. Beautiful roads in beautiful country.

Sometimes Google maps assumes we are up for anything. This particular section is better done walking I think. But once up there I am so glad I have come this way.

Down on the coast now, I come through Cannes. This whole coastal area is stunning.

After staying in an Airbnb in St Raphael, it is Sunday morning and I ride up the coast. Cycling central. There are thousands of riders out.

Arriving in Nice. Just near this spot I go into the airport to check. No. No cartons right now. They are restocked on Wed, the day after I fly out.

Undeterred I get a carton at a bike shop. I try out the balloon packing system someone told me about. Thumbs up for that.

Central Park is a great place to start cycling in NYC. It’s big and it is central. Over in Brooklyn, Prospect Park is also very good.

Venturing out onto the streets you soon find yourself mixing it with humanity. There is a great feeling of solidarity amongst the cyclists.

NYC is a city of subcultures. There are areas of Brooklyn where the orthodox Jews resisted the introduction of bike paths that were only white lines painted on the road, by painting them with black paint at night. Their concern was that cycling encouraged immorality due to revealing lycra clothing.

Across the East River, the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges both have bike paths and carry thousands of bikes a day. Although helmet wearing is not mandatory, in peak hour on these bridges, over 80% wear one.

In lower Manhattan at the Museum of Indian History this powerful statement could just have well been written about the plight of Australia’s indigenous people. Where a massacre was called a victory.

Also in lower Manhattan. Non-American find the US obsession with their flag hard to understand. And Americans don’t like it being pointed out or challenged. It is as if their flag is a holy institution.

Map of the NYC Century route. Despite signposting many riders end up doing 180-190km instead of 160.

TA does a great catering job. They also take pictures of each rider just before the Verrazano Bridge and sell them.

Lots of riders do it every year. It is a major social event in the city.

The Triborough bridge linking The Bronx, Queens and Manhattan. The bike path is not great but it is an essential link in the entire metropolis.

This is the bridge across the Hudson to New Jersey. You have to ride 230 blocks to upper Manhattan to get to it, but it is really a must-do.

Nothing beats the buzz of riding on the streets in mid-town and lower Manhattan.